October 31, 2015
When are the best times to transplant established Azaleas. I want to give three plants a new home that will face more sun (west) over very little sun now. They are good plants but I just want to show them off. I did transplant 1 of 4 plants from the same area (taking a chance) late spring, cool early summer. It survived the summer and dry fall even though at times it seemed touch and go but now it's prospering.
You have some options. I would not do so as we are heading into winter, since we have had some winter damage even on well-established azaleas the past two winters. You can move them at the end of winter, but it could impact their spring blooms. Waiting until immediately after bloom is another option, but there will be more stress on the plants since they will be actively growing. As long as you are willing to water and pamper them a bit, they should be fine with both of the last two options.
I have a couple of encore azalea plants that I would like to move to different spots in my flower bed. Is now the time to transplant them or is there a better time? I've heard that fall is a good time for planting but I didn't know about transplanting. The azalea bushes have several years’ growth on them so they are not new plants. Also when is the best time to prune azaleas?
Fall is a great time for planting hardy trees and shrubs, but more tender plants I prefer to wait until winter weather is over before transplanting or moving. If the site they are in is really bad for the plant, I would take my chances and move them. If you just need to relocate them, I would wait until spring. Azaleas can struggle in a particularly cold winter, and will be hardier with an intact root system. If we could only look in the crystal ball and know what kind of winter we will have, it would make life easier. Last year they would have thrived with a fall planting since we had no winter, but you just never know.
I finally found out what my purple berried plant was from reading your article. I have a beautyberry or French mulberry, but it is growing in a bad location. When is the best time to move it?
Callicarpa americana or beautyberry, is a tough native. It can be moved anytime from November through February. Make sure you water it and mulch, and it should come through fine. If it has multiple crowns, you could also divide it when you move it to increase the number of plants you have.
I have an azalea bush that I would like to transplant. Would it be alright to transplant it now or should I wait until spring?
If we could look in a crystal ball and predict what kind of winter we were going to have, it would make the decision a whole lot easier. My preference is to wait until late winter or early spring to get through the bulk of the winter. Azaleas are shallow rooted plants and would be more winter hardy with an intact root system. If it is in a poor location that could lead to death if not moved, then go ahead and do so. If you can wait, then do so. The dormant or transplant season is considered from November through February, but plant hardiness does need to be considered.
A friend is giving me some large hydrangea shrubs which I must move to my location. When is the best time to transplant them? They are huge! How much of the roots must I dig up? Send me all the information I need on transplanting.
Unless the friend is moving and you have to move them now, wait until the bulk of winter has passed and then move them in late February through mid March. They will be more winter hardy now with their roots intact. When you move them, get as much of a root ball as you can manage to move and get them in their new soil as soon as possible, planting them at the same depth they are currently growing. Make sure that you plant them where they get full morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered sunlight. They won't bloom in heavy shade and they will wilt daily with full sun. You may have to thin them out a bit during the move, but remember that flowers are set and if you want blooms this first year in your yard, you want them as intact as possible. Water well the entire first year, and as needed thereafter. No fertilizer in the planting hole, but if you want deep pink flowers mix lime into the planting soil. If you want deep blue, mix in some wettable sulfur.
I live in Maumelle and have about ten loropetalum shrubs. They have been planted for four years. I want to move two of them. The two that I need to move are about six feet tall and about six feet across. They are growing into our tulip tree. I could prune one or the other, but I believe I planted them too close together and this will be a recurring problem. Have I waited too long to move them?
I would prefer you wait until fall or early next spring. We had a glorious spring this year but we are heading into our warmest months, and moving a plant now will be stressful to the plant. If you absolutely must move them do so as soon as possible and water, water, water. The plants will wilt daily for probably a good two to three weeks or more until the roots begin to re-establish themselves. As large as the plants are it will be hard for a severed root system to keep up. If you can move them while they are dormant, the roots have a chance to re-establish themselves while the tops are not actively growing.
I'd like to know how and when to transplant two Rose of Sharon bushes I have in my front yard. They are at least 5-7 years old. They are in a pretty shaded area and I have an area out in the back that gets more sun and I'd like to put them there. Can you tell me when is the best time to transplant, and are there any specifics I need to know about?
If at all possible, try to transplant existing trees and shrubs during the dormant season—November through March. While it is possible to move plants during the growing season, it puts more stress on them and takes a bit longer to recover. I prefer to move hardy plants (such as the Rose of Sharon) in the fall, since this gives them all winter and spring to get their roots established before summer kicks in. For less winter hardy plants like gardenias, azaleas, camellias etc, get them through the bulk of winter and then transplant.
I have several very old azaleas that I want to move from one flowerbed to another. When is the best time to transplant and what is the best way to transplant?
Azaleas have very shallow root systems, compared to many other shrubs. This makes them somewhat easier to move. You have two options. One is to move them at the end of this month, getting as large of a root ball as you can manage. You may lose some of your flowers by doing it before bloom, but it can be done. The other option would be to move them immediately following flowering. If you need to do any pruning, it could be done before you move them. Try to match the conditions they are currently growing in. If you move them after bloom, don’t be surprised if they wilt badly for a few days. Keep them watered and mulched and they should bounce back as the roots begin to take hold. No fertilizer in the planting hole, but do try to plant them in a well drained, well amended soil.
I'd like to know how and when to transplant two Rose of Sharon bushes I have in my front yard. They are at least 5-7 years old. They are in a pretty shaded area and I have an area out in the back that gets more sun and I'd like to put them there. Can you tell me when is the best time to transplant, and are there any specifics I need to know about? They are in full leaf now and do bloom a little every season, but I think would be showier in more sun.
Transplant season is best done while the plants are dormant—between November and February. Althea or Rose of Sharon is a tough plant and probably would survive a summer move, but if you have the option, I would hold off until this fall. Spend some time now preparing the site, removing grass and weeds, amending the soil with some compost and mulch. Then in November, dig and replant. This way, they will have all fall, winter and spring to re-establish roots and should be ready to grow and bloom next season. You can prune them back as much as you want when transplanting, since these plants bloom on the new growth.
I have three Sasanqua camellia plants that are 5' to 6' that are located on the north side of our home. They have outgrown their space and need to be moved to the east side of the house. When would be the best time of year to move them, and what should I do to prepare the new planting area?
I would move them now. Try to get as much of a root ball as you can. Replant in a well drained location and plant at the depth they are currently growing, or slightly more shallow. Water and mulch. If you damage any branches during the move, now is an ideal time to prune them as well. No fertilizer in the planting hole, but if you can amend the soil with compost that would encourage root spread. Don't be alarmed if they look puny for a month or so after the move, but they should bounce back quickly.
I have a friend who would like to give me part of her Hydrangea bush. When is the right time to dig it up and transplant?
You basically have two choices. Wait until fall when the weather cools off, mulch well and water. It might get winter damaged, but it should survive. It may not bloom the next season however. The other option is to wait until the bulk of winter weather has passed in the spring, and move it then. Dividing and transplanting now would not be advisable. This is typically the hottest, driest part of summer and hydrangeas would struggle.
All links to external sites open in a new window. You may return to the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture web site by closing this window when you are finished. We do not guarantee the accuracy of the information, or the accessibility for people with disabilities listed at any external site.
Links to commercial sites are provided for information and convenience only. Inclusion of sites does not imply University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture's approval of their product or service to the exclusion of others that may be similar, nor does it guarantee or warrant the standard of the products or service offered.
The mention of any commercial product in this web site does not imply its endorsement by the University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture over other products not named, nor does the omission imply that they are not satisfactory.